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[oplopanax]

Hi all-
I am so excited to have just received 50 Lophophora w. seeds!

I have never grown cactus from seed, and I have never grown anything indoors using lights.

I just went out and bought a heating mat with a humidity retaining seed tray, and a light.

The light is a 125W CFL.

I have read a bunch of people's posts about starting Lophophora from seed, but I have a few questions:

It is winter here and my house stays kinda warm but not really. The heat mat is supposed to keep the seeds 15 degrees F above ambient temperature. That would probably mean 65-70 degrees F which seems low from what I have heard for germination. Will the light add enough heat even if it is not in a box, just hanging above the tray?

How high above the tray should I hang the light?

People have said that you can start Lophophora seeds in any old starting soil. Opinions? Could I start them in succulent potting soil?

I also have some Mimosa tenuiflora seeds that I want to start. If I grow them both together do you think they would be happy, as in do they want similar growing conditions when they are babies?

Hopefully the seeds are not too old, hard to tell with a commercial vendor.

I am so excited to keep this ancient teacher alive on this earth!

[New Wisdom]

That temperature is fine for starting lophs. Although the heat mats usually go up to like 80-90 degrees.  Which would work too.  And I keep my flouro lights about 9" above the seedlings.  Feel it out though. If they turn red move it away. If the seedlings stretch move it closer. 

I use 1/1/1 potting soil/pumice (perlite can be used)/washed sand.  A seed starting mix works good too, but you will need to give them nutes after a while. 

In my experience mimosa seedlings like full outdoor sun.  So I'm not sure how they would do with some lophs under artificial lighting.

[oplopanax]

Great, thank you! It is not a big deal if the substrate for the Lophophora is chunky? People were talking about sifting things...

[New Wisdom]

My substrate is pretty chunky.  I think it's okay.

[oplopanax]

OK, thank you so much! I am going to get all set up in the next few days & I will let y'all know how it goes.

1 Like Frog Pajamas likes this.

[Ian Morris]

I use the same 1/1/1 mix and never bother filtering.  I think if you use quality organic material (your own compost or good potting soil) you don't really have problems.  Its when you go cheap and get topsoil mixed with pine bark (never buy the cheapest stuff at Wal-Mart but I guess this goes for more than just potting soil) that you might have problems.

This article here will recommend a pure sand substrate for seedlings.  I have done both and didn't have any of the issues he raises and it was just easier to start in the 1/1/1 since they will just end up in anyway.  I don't remember if he covers it here but get some larger rocks (your choice my wife liked some I gifted that used some extra aquarium gravel we had) for a top dressing.  The top dressing makes an attractive mulch, holds up cacti and holds in water.  The majority of this article is pretty good information for all cactus, plus I enjoy Mr. Martin's no nonsense writing style and general approach to gardening.

When you feel like trying other cacti (and you will if they strike you like they do me) this website has more information than you need.  http://www.cactiguide.com/

Good luck and enjoy,
Ian

1 Like New Wisdom likes this.

[Turk0lok0]

the tecnique of germinate lophos is like Trichocereus? in my T. bridgesii i used esterilized sand river(3/4) with powdered charcoal(1/4)+ a quarter of the amount of coal powder of bone meal...i used to moistned water with sodium hypochlorite(9w:1h)!

[Frog Pajamas]

Congratulations on the new setup. New year, new seeds- good times

My experience has been like Wisdom's with mimosa seedlings. They get growing pretty fast and will stretch without some pretty intense lights, resulting in not very strong plants. My first few were started off season and they literally flopped over from stretching before the trunk went woody under a 125 W cfl.

Maybe try germinating a few now (scarify and hot water soak or just hws until they swell before planting) and keep some to start in 6-8 weeks when you can move them outdoors as they develop their first true leaves. Hopefully after a full growing season they will be sturdy enough for the winter indoors.

[oplopanax]

Thank you all for the advice- Frog do you think the seeds will be fine for that long? I don't know if Mimosa seeds lose viability fast which is why I was going to start them as soon as I could. I would rather wait and have the environment helping me along in growing these people. It feels a little silly to be starting seeds right now but I know that the Lophophora seed loses viability quickly and I don't know how old the seeds are.
P.S I love you people, plant geeks are my favorite.

[Frog Pajamas]

P.S I love you people, plant geeks are my favorite.

Then you have found the right place, my friend. 

Mimosa seeds remain viable for years so take your time. Getting water to penetrate the seed coat can take a little persistence, but they'll germinate for a long time to come and will do much better in the sun soon after germinating.

[oplopanax]

Great! Thanks!