Share The Seeds
Gardening Area => Plant Propagation => Topic started by: PermieGing on August 21, 2013, 12:54:49 AM
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This thread from the nexus seems to describe the propagation of caapi well
https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28795 (https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=28795)
Hope it helps :)
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Thanks for the link. This thread can serve for members to share their experiences about B. Caapi propagation, since we don't have any dedicated thread yet. Hopefully we'll be able to compile our own information here in STS.
Saludos,
Mandrake
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Hopefully we'll be able to compile our own information here in STS.
i don't think anyone here will ever have as comprehensive a knowledge of banisteriopsis as ringworm, but for what it's worth my muricata is growing rapidly enough to where i am considering taking cuttings in the near future.
will certainly provide an update when i do (my goal is to get a good 5 or so cuttings to be well-established, and use all 6 plants as mothers for sharing cuttings for purposes of terraformation)
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Ive been growing Cielo for a few years and haven't had much success propagating it, using ringworms technique or my own. What I have found to work every time tho, is to simple bend down one of your vine shoots and bury a node in a pot, keeping it connected to the plant until enough roots form. I have been able to clone some branches by plucking them straight into the growing medium and placing them in a humid dome. For the latter technique, it seems as if the semi hardwood shoots work the best, as opposed to young green shoots are woody ones. I think by taking a more woody shoot, and placing it in a glass of water for a week, allowing the bark to soften a little before placing it in the soil , may help it to form roots. Ive also had success by just putting shoots in a glass of water and letting them sit for a month, but maybe only 10%, or 5 of the shoots ive tried. Its still hit or miss for me. I'm still after a more proven technique and am open to any suggestions.
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Wow
Thats very simple and i bet it works well!
Maybe cutting the end a tad that you plan on burying will help rooting
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billy, have you tried woody cuttings instead of the green shoots?
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Wow
Thats very simple and i bet it works well!
Maybe cutting the end a tad that you plan on burying will help rooting
Yes, Ive tried scraping the bark away a little bit.
billy, have you tried woody cuttings instead of the green shoots?
Yes, the woody cuttings seem to root less often than the semi woody cuttings, for me anyway. I think by putting the woody cuttings in water for a week softens the wood and helps roots to shoot out.
I haven't been using any rooting hormone on any of my cuttings.
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are you saying you tried water soaks, or are you saying that could be a possible improvement on your method?
also i do have some rooting hormone, so maybe that will help.
it is weird tho, every source has said woody cuttings root better, so you are the first person to say green cuttings root better.
now i am not sure which kind of cutting i should attempt, lol.
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are you saying you tried water soaks, or are you saying that could be a possible improvement on your method?
I think a water soak helps the woodier cuttings to root.
it is weird tho, every source has said woody cuttings root better, so you are the first person to say green cuttings root better.
now i am not sure which kind of cutting i should attempt, lol.
Semi woody cutting that still have new growth appear to work best for me.
You should try an experiment w/ different types and let us know which rooted faster, or worked the best.
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i seem to remember something about good honey(big difference there) is a great organic rooting hormone??
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A quick Google search reveals that there are other sources which suggest that honey can work as a rooting hormone if diluted in a 2-1 water-honey ratio, most sites suggest it's because honey is great as inhibiting infections as well as honey's hygroscopic properties working to it's advantage. I've used standard rooting hormone (indole-3-butyric acid 1%) but using honey as an alternative intrigues me.
I wonder if someone would be willing to test honey's effectiveness compared to standard rooting hormones, if someone has a plant capable of propagating w/ cuttings they could take a few for each a control group (no hormones or honey) and one for each 'experiment group' to see which works better.
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Just an observation from a single cutting that I'm rooting at the moment. It's semi hardwood for the first couple inches, then there was a branch with a green shoot that was actively growing. I'm just starting to see root formation after about 3 weeks using rooting hormone in water. I noticed that the roots are coming from the green portion and not the semi-hardwood portion of the cutting. So I thought that was interesting..
I'd love to test the water/honey/rooting hormone thing out, though I don't have enough similar shoots from a single plant to give it a fair test at the moment. Though I might be able to do one in each, and repeat the test a couple times as I get more shoots.
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I cant stress enough, there is a HUGE difference in honey quality; so obviously ffor this, you want the best
I saw a youtube vid where they were propagating cannabis cuttings with honey
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Agreed.
I have a 5 gal pail of organic wildflower honey (I brew mead with it)...It smells like heaven when I open it. It seems like quality honey, not like the stuff you get in the little bears at the grocery store for sure!
I also have a hive... but I don't know if we'll harvest from them this year.. gotta open it up and see how they're doing=)
While I'm waiting on my caapi plants to grow some more, maybe I'll give it a shot with something I have an abundance of... like passion flower or hops. Not that passion flower is terrible difficult to root, but I could start dozens of cuttings from what I have growing now. If honey stands out above the control group and/or rooting hormone, that might suggest it would work well for caapi too.
What do you think? Is it worth a shot or are the plants just too different for it to make any assumptions based on the results from a different plant?
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Sounds like a great start! Maybe 10 or so other species of plant could add to the credability, for sure!
We just need a control group of greaaat honey. Of course organic :)
Beekeeping is a great hobby. There is a total of 8 at my house, make pleeenty of honey :) that being said, this year wasnt the best. To much rain.
I think we got an experiment on our hands
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I'd say the experiment would work with any plant that propagates via cuttings, who knows maybe we'll see a difference between species, where some honey would work better with others the hormone doing better...
You have 8 hives at your house? Are they not territorial or do you have enough land to separate them? Regardless that's a lot of honey!
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Heh, well if anyone else attempts the honey as rooting hormone replacement, don't forget to change the honey/water mixture frequently.
I attempted this but didn't refresh the honey/water often enough and it started to ferment after about 5 days. Pretty sure that's not good for rooting=)
I'll revisit this experiment in another week or so when I have the time to give it more attention.
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Years ago with photinia, roses and grapes I did a mass project for tafe, and got better strike rates with really dark iron bark honey, than with the standard supermarket "rootex" powder.
Not a lot, but around 10-20% better from memory, photinia was around 30% better.
But with willow, poplars and something else I cant remember, I ended up with a lot less successes, than the control(nothing) or the powder. Really crappy for the water loving stuff, but its always super easy anyway.
Using that cheap squirt bottle honey(has glucose it as well as honey and water) I just got loads of black mildew in a bout half of them, but it could have been spread from the roses.
I just dipped about 1inch in the honey, left it for 10-20mins, wiped it off with a finger and stuck it in the soil.
When I strike new stuff these days I generally use honey on half and powder on the others and it averages out to pretty much the same results.
Generally a very slightly better strike, but then slightly more fungal stuff, so?
Who knows. I still cant decide which is best over all myself.
With HBWR, burning the stem a little with a cigarette lighter, just a little till the grey green changes, then burying it can help them root, where I have had just about no success with any other methods. Takes a month or 2, but like I say, bugger all success with them using powder or honey, or even cut and bury.
Its a similar sort of plant, so that might be worth a try too?
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Honey won't ferment if it's water content is low enough. I think I read less than 18% somewhere. Maybe it would be better to not stick it in water after a honey treatment, then a few days down the line wash it off and put the cutting in water.
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The last time I planted some cuttings it worked out well. I was using mature woody nodes (.5" diameter) that had new shoots coming from them. I cut each side of the node making it about 1" and bury it in the pot w/ the shoot sticking up, kind of like an upside down letter T. Some nodes have 2 shoots which kind of makes them harder to pot, in that case I'll manipulate the shoots to fit in the pot, or cut off the less dominant one. The roots spread from the node and the shoot takes growth in about 1 month. I used newspaper pots, the roots busted thru the soft pots and spread allover the bottom of the terrarium. I've sent some of the last batch propagated this way to STS members and they were all very pleased w/ the plants.
With HBWR, burning the stem a little with a cigarette lighter, just a little till the grey green changes, then burying it can help them root, where I have had just about no success with any other methods. Takes a month or 2, but like I say, bugger all success with them using powder or honey, or even cut and bury.
Its a similar sort of plant, so that might be worth a try too?
I'll try the burning technique in a few weeks and report back.
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I can not understand every thing was wrote in previous posts, so excuse me if I repeat information.
I live in a Hardiness Zone 10 (I am not sure about this), or in a Cwa climate (Koppen classification).
To propagate B. caapi I prefer seeds. But caapi seeds have short life, in a few months germinate rate go to 0.
Vegetative methods works good, but it is necessary use a piece with ± 1 cm in diameter. Green shoots almost never root. Other important parameter is the cutting must to posses 2 knots (where plant give leafs or new shoots). Put in a organic soil, one knot above and other below of substrate. Substrate must be humid all the time.
Good temperature is 25-30ºC.